Located 300 miles northeast of Tahiti, Kamoka was founded in the early 1990s by the Humbert family, who have pioneered some of the strictest levels of sustainable pearl farming over the ensuing decades. The high-powered hoses used to clean oyster shells by commercial operations (which alter the pH of seawater and disrupt the local ecosystem) have been replaced with native fish species, which pick the oysters clean. As a result, Kamoka's native marine population, including previously endangered species, is now thriving, bolstered by a protected breeding reserve. What's more, by only using oyster mother-of-­pearl shell nuclei in its cultured pearls (rather than mussel shell nuclei), Kamaka has created gems of unparalleled hue and lustre. "They're called 'unicorn' pearls, because they are so fantastically rare and beautiful," says Chan. "I'd never bought gemstones without holding them in my hand before, but I spent hours on Zoom with the Humberts, choosing the perfect ones. It was heavenly."

Chan's unicorn pearls will be the centrepiece of a 20-piece collection of earrings, pins and rings set to launch later this year. Inspired by the plants in Chan's own garden, recycled aluminium and yellow gold have been fashioned into delicately curling fern leaves, or sleek blades of grass, embellished with gleaming pearl" dewdrops", lab-created diamonds, sapphires and garnets. "I loved the idea of elevating something humble like a leaf into a sculptural piece of art; in the same way that an oyster can transform a grain of sand into an amazing pearl," says Chan. And just as she envisioned her gold pocket square as a unisex accessory, these pieces are also designed to be worn by anyone. The pocket square itself may even stage a comeback. "I've finally found the perfect grey pearl which could be set inside it," enthuses Chan. "Watch this space."