Have you used lab-grown gemstones since the beginning? Why did you decide to use lab-grown stones rather than natural gemstones?

When I launched my brand 9 years ago on graduation, it was my mission to offer a different perspective in the industry – I wanted to create equally beautiful and red carpet worthy jewels without the conflict, humanitarian and environmental issues and untraceable provenance associated with mining.

I was trained very traditionally in fine jewellery and natural gemstones at the Royal College of Art and Gemmological Association – but everything changed from a trip to Sri Lanka 10 years ago where I visited colour gemstone mines locally. Seeing the conditions of how the miners worked, how little they were paid and the lives they led – they were mining some of the most valuable commodities in the world and yet they also live and work in some of the harshest conditions just made no sense to me, and I didn’t want to be a part of it. That is when I decided to research into alternative materials – gemstones cultivated in a science laboratory rather than mined from the ground.

Independently founded in London in 2013, we are the first fine jewellery brand in the world to champion laboratory-grown gemstones and recycled metals paired with high jewellery design and artisanal craftsmanship, always driven by a focus on sustainable innovations. Today we also work with a carefully curated selection of fully traceable and responsible gemstones by artisanal miners, with a commitment to support multiple solutions to the cause that are mindful to planet and people, supporting local and global communities where it matters most.

Can you tell us a bit about the process used to make lab-grown gemstones?

Gemstones are made of minerals – much like growing crystals in science class as a child – it is made possible by mimicking the conditions within the earth where the gemstones are formed in a controlled environment – in a laboratory. For example, Diamonds are made of Carbon; Sapphires are corundum which is aluminium oxide and Rubies are aluminium oxide with chromium.

There are two types of laboratory-grown gemstones – synthesised meaning they are gemmologically and optically identical to natural gemstones, and simulated gemstones that are optically identical but chemically different to their mined counterparts.

Lab-grown gemstones, and in particular lab-grown diamonds, are still a bit of a controversial subject – why do you think that is? What do you think are some of the myths that remain around lab-grown gemstones?

Diamonds are among nature’s most precious and beautiful creations. They have been coveted for centuries across the world for its beauty and intrinsic value from as early as 4 century B.C. washed up on riverbeds as pebbles. Ancient Greeks believed them to have mystical protective powers, and it is from the Greek term ‘adamas’, meaning invincible, that the word ‘diamond’ originates.

But its popularity and synonymous association with romance and the notion of eternity really originated from the 1940s to the 1980s, as the result of possibly the most successful marketing campaign in history commissioned by De Beers, which includes its infamous slogan ‘A Diamond is Forever’.

Commercial mining of natural resources whether it is for fossil fuels or diamonds is one of the most destructive industries on the planet. You have to consider not only a carbon footprint, which is only a single facet of the environmental impact that also includes the displacement of people, land and wildlife - the loss of natural habitats and ecosystems, and often communities of people. Mining is also inherently polluting, from air to water to soil – it is also labour intensive and often involves some of the harshest working conditions.

When it comes to industrial diamond mining, we have to consider the full life cycle of the mine from exploration to excavation, followed by depletion, closure and land restoration, all of which involves a great deal of efforts in both human labour and energy consumption. On the other hand, laboratory grown diamonds can be relocated and powered by renewable energy alone, which is not possible with mined diamonds.

We are excited to be currently working on a collaboration with a laboratory in Gloucestershire for 2023 – SkyDiamonds, whereby carbon dioxide is captured from the atmosphere through a technology pioneered by Climeworks in Switzerland to grow the diamonds using only the sun, the wind, the rain and atmospheric carbon. What is exiting about this is turning something that we don’t want, into something precious and valuable.

Many people will say that fine jewellery is timeless and can transcend generations therefore it is sustainable – and yes it is – fine jewellery itself is sustainable – but the mining of natural resources and gemstone can never be truly sustainable as it is not an infinite source.

Not many people know that to obtain one carat of diamond, 1100 tonnes of earth has to be dug up from the ground, and in the process releases toxic gases into the atmosphere.

What are some of the other materials you use to create your pieces? I know you use recycled metals too?

Our ground-breaking use of recycled aluminium from soda cans is a world’s first and pioneer in circular material innovation. It is a research and development project of 2 years to recycle and refine the metal into a state pure enough for casting just like molten gold and silver.

You do now also use some natural gemstones – what led you to make that decision?

In 2019, I came across an important initiative called Moyo Gems and subsequently in 2020, we introduced the first fully traceable and responsible natural artisanal mined gemstone collection, using the Everledger blockchain to trace back to the individual miner her/himself where they are guaranteed to receive 90-95% of the export price of each stone, 3-10 times what they conventionally receive, with proceeds re-invested back into local communities to fund education, social and community infrastructure support powered by the global non-profit organisation Pact and the GIA. For me personally, Moyo Gems is the first time I feel that it is done the right way.

We also became a partner for the non-profit charity Gem Legacy in the process, who work tirelessly to support artisanal mining communities in West and East Africa.

For 2021 - 2023, we also collaborated with 3rd generation eco-pearl farmers in French Polynesia to harvest natural Tahitian pearls through a slow regenerative process that has not only restored local fish populations including near-extinct species, but also regenerated coral reefs and the marine ecosystem surrounding the atoll. This is a perfect example of how we can work with nature to better it.

How important is it to you that you can trace exactly where your materials are coming from?

I think being able to trace to its origin is only a beginning – what makes a gemstone or product be it fruits and vegetables to fashion clothing to rubies and sapphires is that the people are paid fairly, working under safe conditions and have the access to the basic necessities such as clean water, medical facility and education for their children, for example. And that we do not damage the planet and natural habitats along the way.